Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and tolerability of ZINOVIT® moisturizers as adjuvant therapy in acne patients receiving retinoid therapy: an open-label comparative study

Introduction. Systemic and topical retinoids are the gold standard for treating acne of varying severity. However, their use is often limited by dose-dependent side effects, the most prominent of which are xerosis, irritation, and disruption of the skin barrier function. These phenomena worsen patients’ quality of life and reduce treatment compliance. The use of specialized non-comedogenic moisturizers aimed at restoring the hydrolipidic mantle is considered a key component of adjuvant therapy to improve the tolerability of retinoid treatment.

Objective. To comprehensively evaluate the clinical efficacy, impact on objective skin parameters, quality of life, and organoleptic properties of ZINOVIT® Day Moisturizing Cream for Combination, Oily, Problem Skin with SPF 20 and ZINOVIT® Moisturizing Cream for Combination, Oily, Problem Skin in patients with acne during retinoid therapy.

Materials and methods. An open, comparative prospective study was conducted. The study included 40 patients aged 18 to 45 years with a diagnosis of acne and receiving retinoid therapy. Depending on the severity of acne and the type of therapy, the patients were divided into two groups. Group 1 (n=20): patients with severe acne receiving systemic isotretinoin at a dose of 0.5 mg/kg/day. Group 2 (n=20): patients with mild to moderate acne receiving topical retinoids (adapalene, adapalene+benzoyl peroxide, trifaraten). All patients were prescribed the study creams and cleansing for 8 weeks as adjuvant therapy.

Results. Statistically significant positive dynamics of DIA was noted in both groups. In Group 1, the median DIA decreased from 12.00 [11.25; 13.75] to 8.00 [5.25; 9.00] points by the 8th week (p<0.001). In Group 2, the median DIA decreased from 5.50 [4.25; 6.75] to 1.00 [1.00; 2.00] points (p<0.001). Skin hydration indices improved significantly: in Group 1 from 28.00 [19.00; 32.75] to 36.00 [35.00; 38.00] conventional units (p<0.001), in Group 2 from 29.50 [25.25; 35.00] to 35.50 [32.5; 38.00] conventional units (p=0.008). The TEWL value significantly decreased, indicating strengthening of the barrier function: in Group 1 from 14.00 [11.00; 17.75] to 8.50 [7.25; 10.75] g/m²/h (p<0.001), group 2 from 16.00 [13.25; 17.75] to 8.50 [7.25; 10.00] г/м²/ч (p<0.001). A significant decrease in skin oiliness and improvement in pore size were also recorded. The DIQI values demonstrated significant improvement in both. The organoleptic properties of the products received high marks (>70 % of “excellent” and “good” ratings). The moisturizing effect lasted up to 12 hours after application. There were no cases of study withdrawal due to severe xerosis caused by retinoid therapy.

Conclusion. The study results demonstrate that moisturizing products of the ZINOVIT® line are an effective and well-tolerated component of adjuvant therapy in patients with acne receiving retinoid treatment. Their use statistically significantly improves objective skin parameters (hydration, TEWL, oiliness, pore size and condition), reduces the severity of induced xerosis, improves quality of life, and increases patient compliance with primary therapy. The high organoleptic properties of these products ensure ease of daily use.

1. Acne and rosacea. Edited by L.S. Kruglova. GEOTAR-Media. 2021. 207 p. (In Russ.).

2. Collier, C.N., et al. (2008). The prevalence of acne in adults 20 years and older. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 58(1), 56–59.

3. Dréno, B., et al. (2018). Understanding innate immunity and inflammation in acne: implications for management. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 32 (S2), 3–11.

4. Leyden, J., Stein-Gold, L., & Weiss, J. (2017). Why Topical Retinoids Are Mainstay of Therapy for Acne. Dermatology and Therapy, 7 (3), 293–304.

5. Zaenglein, A.L., et al. (2016). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 74 (5), 945–973.

6. Kruglova L. S., Gryazeva N. V., Tamrazova A. V. Efficacy and safety of isotretinoin Lidose®. Medical alphabet. 2023 (24): 36-40. (In Russ.).

7. Mukherjee, S., et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348.

8. Zaghloul SS, Cunliffe WJ, Goodfield MJ. Objective assessment of compliance with treatments in acne. Br J Dermatol. 2005 May; 152 (5): 1015–21. Kruglova LS, Gryazeva NV. Pathogenetically targeted action of dermatocosmetics in acne. Medical Alphabet. 2025; (23): 40–42. Zaghloul SS, Cunliffe WJ, Goodfield MJ. Objective assessment of compliance with treatments in acne. Br J Dermatol. 2005 May; 152 (5): 1015–21. (In Russ.).

9. Kruglova L.S., Gryazeva N.V., Tairova N.A. Efficiency of combined administration of systemic isotretinoin and omega-3 in patients with acne. Effective Pharmacotherapy. 2024. Vol. 28. Pp. 62–68. (In Russ.).

10. Draelos, Z.D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17 (2), 138–144.

11. American Academy of Dermatology and AAD Association, “Position statement on isotretinoin.” Last revised May 3, 2025. Last accessed June 3, 2025.

12. Kruglova L.S., Zhukova O.V. Additive therapy of acne. Clinical dermatology and venereology. 2016. No. 1. P. 39–47. (In Russ.).

13. Del Rosso JQ, Brandt S. The Role of Skin Care as an Integral Component in the Management of Acne Vulgaris: Part 2: Tolerability and Performance of a Designated Skin Care Regimen Using a Foam Wash and Moisturizer SPF 30 in Patients with Acne Vulgaris Undergoing Active Treatment. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013 Dec; 6 (12): 28–36

14. Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 Oct 15; 11: 491–497.

15. Subramanyan, K. (2004). Role of mild cleansing in the management of patient skin. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 26–34.

16. Finlay, A.Y., & Khan, G.K. (1994). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI)—a simple practical measure for routine clinical use. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 19 (3), 210–216.

17. Draelos, Z.D. (2006). The effect of a daily facial cleanser for normal to oily skin on the skin barrier of subjects with acne. Cutis, 78 (1 Suppl), 34–40.

18. Saurat, J.H. (1999). Side effects of systemic retinoids and their clinical management. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 41 (3), S17-S24.