Preview

Medical alphabet

Advanced search

Retinoid dermatitis and retinization: from retinoid structure to tolerability profile and management strategies

https://doi.org/10.33667/2078-5631-2026-3-72-79

Abstract

Retinoid dermatitis is a predictable, dose-dependent irritant inflammatory skin reaction that occurs predominantly during the early phase of retinoid therapy and may significantly reduce patient adherence. The increasing frequency of retinoid use and the expansion of indications in both dermatology and cosmetic practice underscore the need for unified approaches to the prevention, diagnosis, and management of retinoid-induced dermatitis. This review systematizes current data on the pathogenesis of retinoid dermatitis, with particular emphasis on RAR/RXRmediated transcriptional reprogramming, epidermal barrier dysfunction accompanied by increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), inflammatory chemokine activation, and neurosensory sensitization involving transient receptor potential (TRP) channels. The phenomenon of retinization is discussed separately as a physiological adaptive phase of the cutaneous response to retinoid exposure. A clinical and practice-oriented concept is proposed linking the chemical structure of retinoids, receptor selectivity, and tolerability profiles. Risk factors for retinoid dermatitis, approaches to differential diagnosis with allergic contact dermatitis and rosacea, as well as prevention and severity-stratified management algorithms are presented, with a focus on maintaining therapeutic efficacy while minimizing adverse effects.

About the Authors

A. A. Vashkevich
North-Western State Medical University named after I.I. Mechnikov
Russian Federation

Vashkevich Arina A., PhD Med Sci, associate professor at Dept of Dermatovenereology

Saint Petersburg 



K. B. Olkhovskaya
Central State Medical Academy of the Administrative Department of the President of the Russian Federation
Russian Federation

Olkhovskaya Kira B., PhD Med Sci, associate professor at Dept of Dermatovenereology and Cosmetology

Moscow 



References

1. Zaenglein A.L., Pathy A.L., Schlosser B.J. et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016; 74 (5): 945–973. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2015.12.037

2. Nast A., Dréno B., Bettoli V. et al. European evidence-based (S3) guideline for the treatment of acne – update 2016. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016; 30 (8): 1261–1268. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.13776

3. Acne vulgaris: clinical guidelines. Russian Society of Dermatovenerologists and Cosmetologists. 2020. 50 p. (In Russ.).

4. Motamedi M., Chehade A., Sanghera R., Grewal P. A clinician’s guide to topical retinoids. J Cutan Med Surg. 2022; 26 (1): 71–78. https://doi.org/10.1177/12034754211035091

5. Kligman A.M., Grove G.L., Hirose R., Leyden J.J. Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1986; 15 (4 Pt 2): 836–859. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0190–9622(86)70242-9

6. Draelos Z.D., Ertel K.D., Berge C.A. Facilitating facial retinization through barrier improvement. Cutis. 2006; 78 (4): 275–281.

7. Draelos Z. D. The effect of retinoids on the skin barrier. Skin Therapy Lett. 2006; 11 (5): 1–4.

8. Jacob S. E., Zapolanski T., Chayavichitsilp P. Retinoid contact allergy: myth or reality? Dermatitis. 2008; 19 (1): 1–5. https://doi.org/10.2310/6620.2008.07060

9. Kligman A.M., Draelos Z.D. The effect of topical retinoids on epidermal differentiation. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004; 50 (3 Suppl): S38–S42. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0190–9622 (86) 70242-9

10. Kang S., Duell E.A., Fisher G.J. et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoic acid binding protein II mRNA expression. J Invest Dermatol. 1995; 105 (4): 549–556. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523–1747.ep12323445

11. Kang S., Fisher G. J., Voorhees J. J. Photoaging and topical tretinoin: therapy, pathogenesis, and prevention. Arch Dermatol. 1997; 133 (10): 1280–1284.

12. Shalita A.R., Weiss J.S., Chalker D.K. et al. A comparison of the efficacy and safety of adapalene gel 0.1% vs tretinoin gel 0.025%. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003; 49 (4 Suppl): S200–S206. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0190–9622 (96) 90443-0

13. Greenspan A., Goodman G., Blume-Peytavi U. Retinoid tolerability: clinical relevance of receptor selectivity. Dermatology. 2003; 206 (3): 220–226.

14. Tan J., Thiboutot D., Popp G., et al. Randomized phase 3 evaluation of trifarotene 50 μg/g cream treatment of moderate facial and truncal acne. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019; 80 (6): 1691–1699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2019.02.044

15. Snarskaya E.S., Olisova O. Yu., Bratkovskaya A.V., et al. Trifarotene: a new chapter in acne treatment. Russian Journal of Skin and Venereal Diseases. 2024; 27 (2): 219–230. (In Russ.). https://doi.org/10.17816/dv629838

16. Tan J., Miklas M. A Novel Topical Retinoid for Acne: Trifarotene 50 μg/g Cream. Skin Therapy Lett. 2020; 25 (2): 1–2.

17. Blume-Peytavi U., Fowler J., Kemény L., et al. Trifarotene for the treatment of acne vulgaris: results of phase III studies. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019; 80 (1): 169–177.

18. Dréno B., Thiboutot D., Layton A., et al. Trifarotene: a new topical retinoid for acne. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020; 34 (1): 3–12.

19. Fluhr J.W., Elias P.M. Stratum corneum barrier function. Dermatol Clin. 2008; 26 (1): 23–31.

20. Olkhovskaya K.B., Vashkevich A.A. Retinoids in dermatology: from structure to clinical application. Russian Journal of Skin and Venereal Diseases. 2025; 28 (4): 437–448. (In Russ.). https://doi.org/10.17816/dv678298

21. Yoshimura K., Uchida G., Okazaki M., et al. Differential expression of heparin-binding EGF-like growth factor (HB-EGF) mRNA in normal human keratinocytes induced by a variety of natural and synthetic retinoids. Exp Dermatol. 2003; 12 (Suppl 2): 28–34. https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600–0625.12.s2.5.x

22. Lee J.E., Chang J.Y., Lee S.E., et al. Epidermal Hyperplasia and Elevated HB-EGF are More Prominent in Retinoid Dermatitis Compared with Irritant Contact Dermatitis Induced by Benzalkonium Chloride. Ann Dermatol. 2010; 22 (3): 290–299. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2010.22.3.290

23. Monakhov S.A. Rational therapy of acne. Russian Journal of Skin and Venereal Diseases. 2013; (6): 47–54. (In Russ.). https://doi.org/10.17816/dv36869

24. Berson D.S. The science of topical retinoids. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013; 12 (Suppl 8): S96–S98.

25. Kang S., Voorhees J. J. Topical retinoids and cutaneous irritation. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003; 4 (1): 1–8.

26. Rawlings A. V., Harding C. R. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther. 2022; 35 (1): e15222. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396–0296.2004.04s1005.x.

27. Fluhr J.W., Darlenski R., Taïeb A., et al. Sensitive skin syndrome. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2014; 28 (1): 2–8.

28. Purnamawati S., Indrastuti N., Danarti R., Saefudin T. The role of moisturizers in dermatitis. Clin Med Res. 2017;15(3–4):75–87. https://doi.org/10.3121/cmr.2017.1363.

29. Nelson J.L., Mowad C.M. Allergic contact dermatitis: patch testing beyond the TRUE Test. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010; 3 (10): 36–41.

30. Two A.M., Wu W., Gallo R.L., Hata T.R. Rosacea: part I. Introduction, categorization, histology, pathogenesis, and risk factors. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015; 72 (5): 749–758; quiz 759–60. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2014.08.028

31. Leyden J.J., Thiboutot D., Shalita A.R., et al. Evolving role of topical retinoids in acne therapy. J Drugs Dermatol. 2017; 16 (6 Suppl): S49–S55.

32. Thielitz A., Gollnick H. Topical retinoids in acne. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008; 6 (12): 1023–1031. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1610–0387.2008.06741.x.

33. Bershad S., Kranjac Singer G., Parente J.E., et al. Successful treatment of acne vulgaris using a new method: results of a randomized vehicle-controlled trial of short-contact therapy with 0.1% tazarotene gel. Arch Dermatol. 2002; 138 (4): 481–489. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.138.4.481

34. Veraldi S., Barbareschi M., Benardon S., Schianchi R. Short contact therapy of acne with tretinoin. J Dermatolog Treat. 2013; 24 (5): 374–376. https://doi.org/10.3109/09546634.2012.751085.

35. Yeh L., Bonati L.M., Silverberg N.B. Topical retinoids for acne. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2016; 35 (2): 50–56. https://doi.org/10.12788/j.sder.2016.024

36. Loden M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003; 4 (11): 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005

37. Del Rosso J.Q. The role of skin care as an integral component in the management of acne vulgaris: part 1: the importance of cleanser and moisturizer ingredients, design, and product selection. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013; 6 (12): 19–27.

38. Pariser D. Topical corticosteroids and topical calcineurin inhibitors in the treatment of atopic dermatitis: focus on percutaneous absorption. Am J Ther. 2009; 16 (3): 264–273. https://doi.org/10.1097/MJT.0b013e31818a975c.


Review

For citations:


Vashkevich A.A., Olkhovskaya K.B. Retinoid dermatitis and retinization: from retinoid structure to tolerability profile and management strategies. Medical alphabet. 2026;(3):72-79. (In Russ.) https://doi.org/10.33667/2078-5631-2026-3-72-79

Views: 101

JATS XML


Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.


ISSN 2078-5631 (Print)
ISSN 2949-2807 (Online)